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Voyages in the heart of
Africa
Burundi
/ Congo / Rwanda / Uganda 21 days
in the great lakes.
(Many of the Congo photos are by
Kim Gjerstad, used with grateful thanks)
Other Rwanda itineraries
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Other Uganda itineraries I
Other Congo itineraries
The Africa of the Great Lakes is an almost unknown region. A mythical region that is eternally green. A crossroads for all nomadic peoples, it is also the source of two of Africa’s great rivers: the Nile and the Congo. Lake Tanganyika is Africa’s deepest water. Situated within the Western Rift, the lake is confined by the mountainous walls of the valley. Lake Kivu is a rare African gem created by volcanoes and surrounded by mountains and hills. Lake Edward, entirely located in a large protected area, is an eco-system unique in its diversity of African fauna.

Farther north Lake Albert, sustained by the eternal snows of the Rwenzori Mountains and located in the centre of the continent, is part of the complicated system of the upper Nile. Finally Lake Victoria, the continent's largest lake, the largest tropical lake in the world, is the source of the longest branch of the Nile River, the White Nile.

From the grasslands of the northern shores of Lake Tanganyika through the low plains of the Rusizi River dominated by the steep Nya-Ngezi escarpment, and the bamboo forest of Kahuzi-Biega NP – the unique habitat of the threatened eastern lowland gorilla - on boat on Lake Kivu, along the whole range of the Virunga volcanoes - refuge of the last mountain gorilla - in the rolling plains of Queen Elisabeth National Park overshadowed by the Mountains of the Moon.

photo by Kim Gjerstad
In the search of the elusive chimpanzees of Kibale NP, feeling the omnipresence of the Ituri forest home of the mysterious Mbuti pygmies, resting at the banks of Epulu River where the shy okapi lives, crossing the extensive grasslands dominated by the Blue Mountains range, meeting the Nile as it enters and exits Lake Albert, driving in the middle of herds of big African game toward the unique Nile Falls in Murchison National Park, discovering the endless Lake Victoria: this adventurous safari is unique with its encounter of the real and ever changing Africa.
HIGHLIGHTS . The okapis in Epulu. .
The eastern lowland gorillas in Kahuzi-Biega NP.
.
The last mountain gorillas of the Virunga.
.
The chimpanzees of Kibale National Park.
.
The big African game of Queen Elisabeth, and Murchison
National Park.
.
The great lakes: Tanganyika, Kivu, Eduard, Albert, Victoria; Ishango
the outflow of River Semliki.
.
The encounters with the Mbuti Pygmies.
.
The constant mixture of ethnicities, cultures, and
behaviors.
.
The unique atmosphere of the Ituri forest.
.
The everyday changing.
PRACTICAL ASPECTS
The route follows about 3,000 km of tracks and
roads, on board of comfortable vehicles. 13 nights are spent
in good hotels and nicely located guesthouses. 8 nights are
spent under canvas. The general rule for meals is cold
lunches and warm and varied diners. The climate is
equatorial: (25 – 30°C). Some nights can be fresh, mostly at
high altitudes. There is a small risk of rains in the
Virunga region. There is an experienced English, French and
German speaking guide assisted by experienced multilingual
local driver/guides during the whole safari.
ITINERARY
Day 1 – Arrival in Bujumbura
After arrival, there is a short drive to the hotel in
central town. Bujumbura lies at the north eastern corner of
Lake Tanganyika and grew from a small village to become the
capital of Burundi. Its centre is a colonial town with a
large market, the national stadium, a large mosque, and a cathedral.
During the day we climb to the “Belvedere” on the top of the
hill, a dominating point of the town offering a unique view
onto Lake Tanganyika, visit the mausoleum of Prince Louis Rwagasore, a hero of the independence of
Burundi, drive ten kilometers south to stop at a historical
spot, the commemorating stone of the place where the famous
explorers Stanley and Livingstone rested during their
attempt to find the source of the Nile.
Overnight on the lakeshore
Day 2 – Bujumbura – Rusizi Natural Reserve –
Nya-Ngezi
Escarpment – Bukavu
Leave early morning for the Nature Reserve of the Rusizi
River. Its delta extends over 500 ha of vegetation made of
Phragmites Mauritianus.
It is a natural shelter for a
few families of antelopes and hippopotami that come here in
quest of grazing land.

At the end
of the track if you are lucky enough you may meet with a few
crocodiles fast asleep on the golden sand of the river
banks. At Gatumba we cross into Congo and drive through the
grass plains where the Banyamulenge herders graze the
longhorn cattle. A steep track escalades the Nya-Ngezi
escarpment with fantastic views on the Rusizi River. Via
several colourful villages we drive toward Bukavu, the
administrative centre of Sud-Kivu province and reach the
southern shores of Lake Kivu.
Overnight on the
lakeshore

Day 3 – Kahuzi-Biega NP – Eastern Lowland Gorillas
(Gorilla gorilla graueri)
The Kahuzi-Biega National Park is a World Heritage Site
encompassing a vast area of primary tropical forest
dominated by two spectacular extinct volcanoes, Kahuzi
and Biega, the park has a diverse and abundant fauna.
Some of the last groups of eastern lowland gorillas
(Gorilla gorilla graueri) consisting of some few 250
individuals living here at between 2,100 and 2,400 m
above sea-level. Eastern lowland gorillas have black
coats, and the males develop silver backs as they
mature. With the help of a ranger and trackers, we
approach this rare primate. The walk can take several
hours, but coming across the group in its particular
habitat is an inspiring moment.
Overnight on the lakeshore

photo by Kim Gjerstad
Day 4 – Bukavu – Lake Kivu – Goma
In the morning, we transfer to the busy port of Bukavu
to have a boat ride on Lake Kivu to Goma. En route to
the north, enjoy the peaceful atmosphere of the calm and
pristine waters and the ragged shore of Africa’s highest
lake, an extraordinarily beautiful inland sea enclosed
by steep green terraced hills, lush plantain fields and
remaining relics of misty rainforest to offer sweeping
views over hundreds of small islands.
Overnight on the lakeshore

Day 5 – Volcanoes National Park - Mountain Gorillas
(Gorilla gorilla beringei)
Leave Goma early toward Bukima, one of the outposts of
the Virunga National Park, to track the mountain gorilla. As the first
light of dawn breaks through the curtain of mist
clinging to the summits of Karisimbi, Bisoke, Sabyinyo,
Gahinga and Muhabura, we make our way into the Virunga
National Park. Tracking the gorillas through the
unique vegetation can take several hours of challenging
walking in wet and muddy conditions. To see a gorilla,
the trek will have been worth the hardship.
Overnight near the park
Day 6 – Nyiragongo – Ishasha – Queen Elisabeth National
Park
The road winds along several majestic volcano cones, one
of which is the still active Nyiragongo. People are very
friendly. After Kiwanja, the big villages and green
fields give place to the grass savanna of the park.
Ishasha River marks the border between the 2 countries.
Cross into Uganda and arrive in Queen Elisabeth National
Park.
Overnight in the Park

Days 7/8 – Queen Elisabeth National Park
Two full days of game viewing, the southern sector of
Ishasha is famous for its tree-climbing lions. The
concentration of game, with large herds of Uganda cobs,
topi and buffalo, is found in the savannah highlands and
at the Lake Edward flats, where the number of elephants
is on the rise. Along the Ishasha River bird life is
rich and abundant. In the northern sector, with the
Rwenzoris as a majestic backdrop, with a bit of luck,
you might catch a glimpse of the rare Shoebill Stork
during the especially rewarding launch cruise along the
Kazinga Channel. Daily walks in the park are very
exciting. First we follow the Ishasha River with its
groups of hippopotamus; and later in the Maramagambo
forest to see bats and butterflies. There are birds
everywhere.
Overnight in the Park
Day 9 – Queen Elizabeth - Kibale
National Park
Spend the morning on game drives or
relax at the swimming pool. After
lunch we cross the Equator. The
landscape becomes more tortuous as
we reach the foothills of the
Rwenzori Mountains, whose
snow-capped peaks we can see in the
distance. Leave the main road and on
a bumpy track reach your hotel for
the night.
Overnight near the Park
Day 10 – Chimpanzees of Kibale
National Park
– Birds of Bigodi Swamp
Kibale Forest offers very good
Chimpanzee tracking, top bird
watching and great scenery. Its
total of 13 species of primate is
the highest in Uganda and provides a
haven for the Red Colobus. As with
Gorilla Tracking, following
chimpanzees is hard work – the
terrain is often up or down steep
slopes through thick vegetation.
Chimps are extremely mobile and
agile. The Bigodi Swamp is a papyrus
and tree filled swamp that is home
to several species of monkey
including the rare L’Hoest’s monkey
and an abundance of birds such as
the Great Blue Turaco, Grey Parrots,
and Papyrus Gonolek.
Overnight near the park

photo by the Science
Museum of Brussels
Day 11
– Kasese – Mtongwe – Virunga
National Park– Ishango
We
leave Uganda at Mtongwe and cross into Congo.
Contouring the south of the Ruwenzori, the arduous
track leads into the expansive plains of the
northern sector of the Virunga National Park.
Some Uganda cobs graze on the neighbouring hills as
we drive toward Ishango, where nature offers us one
of its most beautiful scenery: the undulating
outflow of River Semliki from Lake Edward. Here the
famous Ishango bone was excavated, the oldest known
object containing logical carvings, dating back to
more than 20,000 years.
Overnight under canvas
photo by Kim Gjerstad
Days 12/13 – Beni –
River Ituri – Mambasa – Epulu A steep escarpment brings us to the busy town of Beni where we take a short stop. The track leads
westwards through coffee fields, few villages.
Progressively the vegetation gets more and more
dense: crossing River Ituri we enter into the
Congolese rainforest, one of the most important
centers of plant and animal diversity. Green is
omnipresent, sunlight can be scarce. Here and there
a few huts attest to the presence of man. These
communities rarely threaten the integrity of the
Ituri; rather their activities generally enrich the
overall composition of the forest by providing
pockets of secondary vegetation. The trading post of
Mambasa lies at the junction of 3 roads; going
westwards we pass through old oil palm plantations.
The few people are friendly and welcome the
foreigners. Passing Nia-Nia, the road leads to the
huge Congo basin harboring the Okapi Wildlife
Reserve of Epulu
Overnight under canvas

photos by Kim Gjerstad
Days 14/15 – Epulu – Okapi - Ituri Forest – Bambuti
Pygmies
The reserve is home to many okapis. Found only in
the Congo, the okapi (Okapia johnstoni) is a shy and
reclusive forest dweller and is the only living
relative of the giraffe. Its unusual coloration and
markings, including stripes resembling a zebra,
provide camouflage in the dense rainforest and
protect it from predators. To observe it in its
natural distribution area one has to reach the Epulu
Conservation and Research Centre, on the Epulu
River. This facility dates back to 1928 when the
camp was founded by American anthropologist Patrick
Putnam as a capture station, where wild okapis were
captured and sent to American and European zoos. It
still serves that function today, albeit with very
different methodology. Okapis are captured, and then
bred in captivity, and then only these offspring are
sent to zoos, as it has been found that they have a
much higher chance of survival. Even so, very few
are now exported — only the minimum number necessary
to ensure genetic viability of the captive
population. The centre also carries out much
important research and conservation work. Actually
about 23 okapis graze in the vast enclosures under
huge specimen of the two African mahogany tree
species on the banks of the wild and cool River
Epulu.
 
photos by Kim Gjerstad
The Bambuti live in villages that are categorized as
bands. Each hut houses a family unit. At the start
of the dry season, they leave the village to enter
the forest and set up a series of camps. This way
the Bambuti are able to utilize more land area for
maximum foraging. These villages are solitary and
separated from other groups of people. Their houses
are small, circular, and very temporary. The walls
of the structures are poles that are placed in the
ground. At the top of the poles a vine is woven to
keep them together. Large leaves are also used in
the construction of the huts.

photo by Kim Gjerstad
The Bambuti are primarily hunter-gatherers, foraging
for food in the forest. They have a vast knowledge
of the forest and the foods it yields. Crabs,
shellfish, ants, larvae, snails, pigs, antelopes,
monkeys, fish, honey, wild yams, berries, fruits,
roots, leaves, and cola nuts are some of the
assortment of food that the Bambuti collect. Other
food sources yielded by the forest are animals for
meat consumption, root plants, palm trees, and
bananas; and in some seasons, wild honey. Yams,
legumes, beans, peanuts, hibiscus, amaranth, and
gourds are also consumed. The Bambuti use large
nets, traps, and bows and arrows to hunt game. Women
and children sometimes help out by trying to drive
the animals into the nets. Both sexes gather and
forage. Each band has its own hunting ground,
although boundaries are hard to maintain. We should
be able to follow such a group into the forest
where, possibly taking our tents and camp near to
their bands, we spend the night around the camp
fire, listening to their endless hunting stories
while they smoke their cannabis water pipes.
Overnight under canvas
Days
16/17 – Epulu – Komanda – Bunia - Nioka – Mahagi
Back again on the road through the forest we drive
eastwards. Crossing River Ituri again, we arrive at
the crossroads of Komanda and enter progressively
the grass savannah. After Bunia, the track leads to
huge villages living from gold mining. The highlands
between Nioka and Mahagi feed a dense population of
Bantu agriculturists. We stop at colourful market
places in friendly villages.
Overnight under canvas

photo by Kim Gjerstad
Day 18 – Mahagi – Nebi – Murchison NP
Originally home to the proud Alur tribe grazing
their small zebu cows, the rich region of Mahagi is
today a mixture of most of the eastern tribes of
Congo, trading with the fishers of Lake Albert, the
northern corner of DRC, even with southern Sudan. At
the Mahagi border post we leave this huge African
territory and enter western Uganda. The region of
Nebi is famous for its cotton and cassava. At
Pakwach we meet the mighty Albert Nile before
entering Murchison National Park and camp, for the
last time, on the banks of the Nile.
Overnight
under canvas
Days
19/20 – Murchison NP – Kabalega Falls – Budongo
Forest – Masindi
The meanderings of the great river Nile and its
impressive waterfalls, the grasses of the plains and
tree-covered hills, the indigenous rainforest and
the borassus palm trees, the lake shores and the
marshlands of the delta, where the Nile quietly
rejoins the vast waters of Lake Albert, make this
park one of wild natural beauty. It is a place whose
fauna makes it increasingly important to
conservationists. The Ugandan cob is the most
commonly seen antelope; the hartebeest and oribi are
also common. The lakeside area is the watering hole
for elephant and Rothschild giraffe. Among the
thousands of birds, we must mention the Abyssinian
hornbill and the rare shoebill stork. We take to the
water in a boat to enjoy a unique opportunity to
observe the thousands of vibrantly coloured birds,
herds of buffalo at the water’s edge and crocodiles
sunbathing on the riverbanks and to get a closer
look at the waterfalls. Further on, we cross to the
southern bank. What a striking contrast, Kabalega
Waterfalls being undeniably one of the most
remarkable sights in the park. They were named after
a Munyoro chief who put up fierce resistance to the
European explorers and the Sudanese slave traders
looking for the source of the White Nile. Here, the
river makes a path across a narrow gorge and
unleashes hundreds of gallons of water over the edge
of a 50m high precipice. At Kanyo Pabidi, in the
middle of the Budongo forest, we get our last
glimpse of the chimpanzees.
Overnights
1x in the park 1x in Masindi
Day 21 – Masindi – Kampala – Entebbe
We will take it easy this morning in the wooden
restaurant of this historic hotel. Drive via
expansive grasslands and plantations of maize and
cassava which slowly give way to other crops such as
yams and fields of banana trees, producing the
famous matoke. Visit Kampala and drive along the
shore of Africa’s biggest lake, Lake Victoria, to
Entebbe.
Overnight in Kampala or Entebbe
Day 22 – Departure
Transfer to the airport. End of our services.
We provide igloo type tents with linen covered foam
mattresses. In order to be flexible during the
safari, these tents are of the light type. They
assure a good protection. Clients should bring their
own sleeping bag. Water buckets are provided. We
provide tables, folding chairs, lights, full camping
kitchen and cooking equipment. Where possible meals
are prepared on the camp fire. Otherwise gas cooker.
Representation of the Okapi by Sir Harry
Johnston
(Proceedings of the Zoological Society, 1901)
Other Rwanda itineraries
I
Other Uganda itineraries I
Other Congo itineraries
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